Shoe welting and method of making the same

ABSTRACT

THE PRESENT INVENTION RELATES TO A NOVEL AND IMPROVED SHOE WELTING AND TO THE METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME. THE WELTING COMPRISES A WELT HAVING AN UPSTANDING BEAD, A WELT EXTENSION AND AN INSEAM FLANGE, AND IS FORMED BY CUTING A RETANGULAR FILLET OF LEATHER TO PROVIDE A FLAP HINGED TO ITS UPPER SURFACES. THE FLAP IS PROVIDED WITH A RELATIVELY THICK DEPENDING SHOULDER IN ITS UNDER SURFACE, AND THE BODY OF THE CUT FILLET IS ALSO PROVIDED WITH A LONGITUDINALLY EXTENDED GROOVE SPACED INWARDLY FROM THE MARGINAL EDGE OF THE FILLET. THE FLAP IS FOLDED UPON ITSELF TO PROVIDE AN UPSTANDING BEAD, THE BODY OF WHICH IS MADE UP OF THE INTERNAL SHOULDER PORTION AND PORTIONS OF THE FLAP. NOVEL PROVISION IS MADE FOR MAINTAINING THE BEAD UB UTS UPSTANDING POSITION AND COMPRISES THE INTEGRAL SHOULDER PORTION AND THE LONGITUDINAL GROOVE INTO WHICH THE FREE END OF THE FLAP IS POSITIONED AND MAINTAINED BY CEMENTING AND MOLDING THE PARTS TOGETHER.   THE METHOD COMPRISES THE CUTTING AND FOLDING OF THE CUT PARTS OF THE FILLET TO FORM THE BEAD AND FOLDING AND CEMENTING IT IN OPERATIVE POSITION RELATIVE TO THE CUT FILLET. THE PRESENT SHOE WELTING IS PARTICULARLY ADAPTED FOR USE IN ITS NOT LIMITED OF WOMEN&#39;&#39;S CEMENTED SHOES. HOWEVER, IT IS NOT LIMITED IN ITS APPLICATION TO THE MANUFACTURE OF WOMEN&#39;&#39;S SHOES.

Nov. 30, 1971 w. GREENE ETAL 3,623,174

SHOE WELTING AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Feb. 9, 1970 m LEM WW United States Patent 3,623,174 SHOE WELTING AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME,

Percy W. Greene, Whitman, and Enoch E. North, Brockton, Mass., assignors to Barbour Welting Company, Inc., Brockton, Mass.

Filed Feb. 9, 1970, Ser. No. 9,653 Int. Cl. A43b 15/00 US. Cl. 12-146 W 3 Claims ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE The present invention relates to a novel and improved shoe welting and to the method of making the same. The welting comprises a welt having an upstanding bead, a welt extension and an inseam flange, and is formed by cutting a rectangular fillet of leather to provide a flap hinged to its upper surface. The flap is provided with a relatively thick depending shoulder in its undersurface, and the body of the cut fillet is also provided with a longitudinally extended groove spaced inwardly from the marginal edge of the fillet. The flap is folded upon itself to provide an upstanding bead, the body of which is made up of the integral shoulder portion and portions of the flap. Novel provision is made for maintaining the bead in its upstanding position and comprises the integral shoulder portion and the longitudinal groove into which the free end of the flap is positioned and maintained by cementing and molding the parts together.

The method comprises the cutting and folding of the out parts of the fillet to form the bead and folding and cementing it in operative position relative to the cut fillet.

The present shoe welting is particularly adapted for use in the manufacture of womens cemented shoes. However, it is not limited in its application to the manufacture of womens shoes.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Field of the invention The present invention relates to a beaded shoe welting which is particularly adapted for use in the manufacture of womens shoes of the so-called cement construction, wherein it is important to maintain the bead in an upstanding position snugly against the shoe upper and to the method of making the same in an efficient and economical manner.

The cement type of shoe is generally manufactured by one of the known commercial methods. One of such methods is the Compo method wherein the welting is secured or cemented to the upper of the shoe before the sole is cemented in position. The welt and sole are then trimmed together. Another method is referred to as the Prime or IRA method, and the welting is cemented to the pretrirnmed sole prior to the attachment of the upper thereto. The upper is then secured to the sole and the welt firmly hugs the shoe upper. The other method of which I am aware is called in the trade the Albeko method, and in this method the upper and sole are secured together and then the shoe welting is cemented to the sole and upper, the welt being laid on the sole and fitted snugly around the upper.

The present novel welt is particularly adapted for use in the manufacture of shoes by any of the above mentioned methods of cement shoe construction.

Description of the prior art Prior to the present invention, shoe welting of the type commonly utilized in the manufacture of womens cement type shoes embodied an upstanding bead formed by the provision of a separate core piece around which the cover flap cut from the surface of a fillet of leather is wrapped and to which it is secured. This type of welting is relatively expensive both in labor and in material since, obviously, the core must be formed and then fitted and molded under the cover flap to provide the body of the bead. In addition, the free end of the cover flap is merely cemented to the inseam flange and may slip or be displaced as the shoe embodying the welt is worn.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The invention contemplates a novel and improved shoe welting having a one-piece upstanding bead and novel means for maintaining the bead in an upstanding position relative to the body of the welt.

In accordance with the invention, a novel method is provided for forming the one-piece bead. A substantially rectangular fillet of leather is cut to provide a base portion including an inseam flange, a welt extension and a cover flap hinged to the base portion adjacent the welt extension. The fillet is cut to provide a cover flap and in the underside of the cover flap a depending shoulder portion which in the finished welting provides a core for the upstanding bead. In order to assist in maintaining the bead in its upstanding position, a longitudinal groove is cut in the surface of the fillet exposed by the first cut and is spaced inwardly from the inseam edge of the fillet. After the cover flap is folded into its bead forming position, the end of the flap is cemented in the groove and thus is maintained in position and the bead is held in its desired upstanding position.

In a modified form of the invention, the inseam edge of the welting is cut off to provide a substantially vertical face to enable the welting to be readily applied to shoes produced by the Albeko method. The substantially vertical inseam edge is snugly fitted against the shoe upper filling the seam between the sole and upper.

Accordingly, the invention has for an object to provide a novel and improved shoe welting particularly adapted for use in the construction of cement-type shoes wherein the bead is on one-piece construction and wherein a substantial saving in labor and material is effected.

A further object of the invention resides in the novel and improved method of making the present welting.

With these general objects in view and such others as may hereinafter appear, the invention consists in the shoe welting and method of making the same as hereinafter described and particularly defined in the claims at the end of this specification.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS In the drawings illustrating the preferred embodiment of the invention:

FIGS. 1-4 are perspective views illustrating the successive cutting, folding and molding steps in the formation of the present welting;

FIG. 5 is a perspective view illustrating a modified form of the present welting wherein the inseam edge is cut off as shown in dotted lines.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT Referring now to the drawings and to FIG. 1 in particular, 10 represents a substantially rectangular piece of leather which will be referred to as a fillet of leather substantially inch in width and /8 inch thick. The fillet 10 has a grain surface 12 and a flesh surface 14, and in accordance with the invention, an incision is made in one edge which will be the inseam edge 16 in the finished welt, .070 inch upwardly from the bottom surface thereof, and is extended toward the opposite edge of the welt parallel to the upper and lower surfaces approximately .050 inch, and then downwardly and upwardly to form a longitudinal groove 18 as shown in FIG. 2.

The incision is then continued upwardly at an inclined angle to a point 20 and then parallel to the bottom surf-ace of the fillet 10. In this manner, a flap 22 hinged at 24 is formed. The flap is approximately .060 inch in thickness. An intermediate shoulder 26 is formed integrally with the underside of the flap substantially midway between the free end of the flap and the hinged portion 24. As shown, the flap 22 is located along a line spaced inwardly from the edge 28 of the fillet and the area between the flap and edge provides a welt extension 30.

The next step in the formation of the present welt, as best shown in FIGS. 3 and 4, comprises folding the flap upwardly and coating the underside of the flap and cut surface of the fillet with a suitable commercially available adhesive not shown. The flap 22 is then folded downwardly with the shoulder 26 laid against the fiat portion 32 formed during the cutting operation. The remainder of the fiap is pressed upon the surface of the fillet with the free end thereof positioned in groove 18 as shown in FIG. 4. The entire welt is then run through a molding operation, not shown, of the type commonly used in the welt manufacturing industry to firmly set the adhesive and form the finished welt.

It will be apparent from the illustration in FIG. 4 that the present method results in a welt having an upstanding bead 34, a welt extension 30 and an inseam flange 36. The shoulder 26 cut and formed from a portion of the body of the fillet provides an integral core for the bead, thereby eliminating the requirement for a separate core piece as used in prior welts of the same general type.

A modified form of welt manufactured in accordance with the present invention is. shown in 'FIG. 5. The welt of FIG. 5 is particularly adapted for use in the manufacture of cement shoes by the Albeko method wherein the upper and sole are first secured together and the finished welt is cemented to the sole around the upper,

' thus filling the seam between the sole and upper. In this form a welt the steps of FIGS. 1 through 3 are followed and then the laterally extended inseam edge 16 is cut olf adjacent the inner face of the bead as shown in FIG. 5 to form a substantially vertical inseam face 38 particularly adapted to hug the shoe upper. The bottom and inner faces of the finished welt are then adhesively coated and then the welt applied to the extended portion of the sole of the shoe with the vertical face firmly pressed against the shoe upper.

From the foregoing description it will be apparent that the present inventionprovides a novel and improved shoe Welt and method of making the same which is particularly adapted for use in the manufacture of cement shoes and which is economical to produce in that a substantial saving of leather results from the present novel cutting and folding operation wherein the core of the bead is formed integrally with the cover flap.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed is:

1. The method of making a shoe welt which comprises the steps of making an incision in a marginal edge of a rectangular fillet of leather, extending said incision in wardly, then downwardly and then gradually upwardly to a point, and then along a line parallel to the bottom surface of the fillet to a point spaced inwardly from the opposite marginal edge of the fillet to thereby form a flap hingedly connected to the fillet and having a depending shoulder spaced from the hinge, folding said flap upwardly and then downwardly to form an upstanding bead, securing the free edge of said flap to the surface of the fillet along a line spaced inwardly of the edge of the fillet.

2. The method of making a shoe welt as defined in claim 1 including the step of cutting a longitudinal groove in the cut surface of the fillet and cementing the free end portion of the flap in the groove.

3. The method of making a shoe welt as defined in claim 1 which includes the step of cutting the fillet downwardly along the inner face of the bead after the folding of said flap to provide a substantially vertical inseam face.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,687,460 10/1928 Lyon 3678 1,828,728 10/1931 Arnold et a1 3678 2,153,321 4/1939 ViZard l2146 W 2,241,652 5/1941 ViZard 12-146 W 2,299,263 10/1942 Vizard 12146 W 2,593,871 4/1952 Gemme 12--146 W 2,750,686 6/1956 ViZard 36-78 2,763,879 9/1956 Gemme l2-146 W 2,784,504 3/1957 Vizard 3678 2,835,991 5/1958 Gemme -u-....- 3678 FOREIGN PATENTS 681,365 9/1939 Germany 3678 ALFRED R. GUEST, Primary Examiner US. Cl. X.R. 36-78 

